Wine Talk - March 2005

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Centennial Vineyards Verdelho 2004

Brilliant greeny straw. Rich, yet restrained but sophisticated nose comprising of diverse fruit salad characters with dominant passionfruit and melon aromas. Complex buttery bouquet with lively acid emanating from the glass. The palate continues to reward with fruit driven richness, gorgeous fresh and full flavours and a vividness of soft yet fresh acid. The barrel fermented component of the wine adds to its overall complexity providing a welcoming smooth and well rounded lingering finish. A well balanced wine beautifully worked by the winemaker, Tony Cosgriff, a perfectionist committed to his craft. This is an excellent wine. This is a cool climate wine. It is not your Hunter Valley or Margaret River style of Verdelho. The integration of the fruit with the oak has made this into a wine that is perfectly suited to a variety of cuisine. Drink with salt and pepper squid or roasted chicken breast wrapped in prosciutto. Value at about $19. Available from www.centennial.net.au

Cuttaway Hill Estate Chardonnay 2001

I reckon this bottle aged Chardonnay is just tops! It just goes to show what a little bit of aging does to a wine. This Southern Highlands winery has made a very refined and elegant wine from the cool climate grapes it has sourced for this wine. Still a lemony yellow colour, it is classic Chardonnay from start to finish. Alluring and luscious peach, nectarine and green olive aromas captivate you. The bouquet presents smoky and spicy oak characters as well. A fresh yet delicate style of wine with persistent fruit of good weight. Well rounded flavours in the mouth with some nice French oak creaminess and a touch of caramel. Not a big rich Chardonnay but rather a full soft medium bodied wine which is elegant, tight and refined. Drinking very well now, should last at least another 2 years and will drink harmoniously with sautéed scallops with orange and ginger sauce. Go to www.cuttawayhillwines.com.au Good value at around $20 a bottle.

Killerby Shiraz 2001

I enjoy reviewing mature wine that is commercially available as it shows to the consumer what potential a grape variety has to age and develop. Deep crimson to opulent purple in colour. Berry driven with dominant blackberry and blackcurrants on the nose with stewed fruit aromas. Restrained bouquet exhibiting smokey characters with hints of liquorice. A gloriously smooth wine. Powerfully mouth filling, yet still elegant in structure. Complexity with layers of fruit flavour supported by well integrated American oak providing in turn fine soft oak tannins. Full bodied and rich - seamless drinking. Extended lingering finish. Is maturing perfectly with at the very least, 5-7 years ahead of it. Drink with medium rare New York cut steak with honey roasted sweet potato or lamb shanks sautéed in vermouth with a roasted tomato sauce. At about $24, outstanding value. Try www.killerby.com.au

Lambert Vineyard Chardonnay 2002

Canberra cool climate winemaking striving for excellence and very nearly there based on my tasting of this Chardonnay. Straw yellow in colour exhibiting its nearly third year quite gracefully. A nose of aromas teeming with peach, melon, mango and concentrated tropical fruit essences. A bouquet which is restrained but rich, complex, promises oak integration and exhibits hints of butterscotch. A full well rounded delicious wine. Smooth luscious with a good acid structure to support the fruit and the vanillan characters of the French oak. Great winemaking here by Steve Lambert. Persistent peach and melon fruit flavours with a taste of cashew. Seamless and elegant. A real Chardonnay. Should age 5 plus years. Drink with Bangalow sweet pork or spinach and fetta cheese ravioli. Price is about $20. Available by emailing at wine@lambertvineyards.com.au

McLaren Vale Associates "Renaissance" Merlot Cabernet Petit Verdot 2003

Deep plum purple colour with garnet hues. Aromas are intensely rich plum, blackberry, cherry and rhubarb. Slight leafy characters as well as some French vanillan oak characters from the nose. Pure and distinct berry fruit on the palate. Concentrated fruit, rich fruitcake flavours. Mouth filling and warm. Soft oak tannins and potent fruit integration working together very well. Some tobacco and smoky characters. Extended finish. Cellaring potential of perhaps 3-4 years. Priced around $23. Serve with gourmet sausages and mash or marinated barbequed beef spare ribs. Available from www.associates.com.au

Rockbare Chardonnay 2004

McLaren Vale Chardonnay showing its true potential. Light green straw in colour. Complex classy yet restrained fruit characters emanating. An elegant nose promising lots of good things. Tropical fruit driven - subtle citrus aromas. Some mineral characters. No oak here as Tim Burvill, the winemaker lets the fruit and his winemaking skills, do all the talking. Seductively smooth, creamy mouth filling citrus fruit on the palate. Near perfect integration of lush fruit characters with a soft, yet slightly crisp acid finish. The partial malo lactic fermentation (50%) has given the wine certain attractive smooth and rich qualities but has not overwhelmed it, as sometimes happens. Indeed, it is a harmonised wine with complex features and an extended finish drinking perfectly now. Drink it with veal cannelloni. Drinking for at least 2-3 years, developing different characters as it ages. An excellent wine at great value at around $18. Go to www.rockbare.com.au

Paul Ippolito writes about wine for publications across Australia, overseas and the Internet. He speaks on radio and writes a free monthly wine newsletter for consumers. Paul can be contacted by email at Paul_Ippolito@hotmail.com where you can also request to be placed on his mailing list for his newsletter. or visit his website at: www.paulippolito.com.au

Wine Talk - March 2005

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