They tell us that British cuisine has improved and yet we still suffer from gastronomic grumpiness and food fury. Everyone seems obsessed with food, from the air miles it's travelled to the return of the 'Good Life' and organic crops. The telly is smothered with celebrity chefs while the local greengrocer has been overshadowed by those huge supermarket hangars. We've gone from powdered egg to goji berries - whatever they are!